The Truth Will Find You

Riding The Really Big Waves

Riding big waves takes a little bit of nature's help but for most big wave surfers, it's about preparation, skill, experience and attitude. It parallels the fight world a bit. Fighters must meet the above criteria of big wave surfers or the consequences are disastrous, even sometimes fatal for either sport. I have listened to interviews with and spoke personally with both types and hear the same things mentioned at times in essence, the only difference being the words. The thoughts, impressions, and comments are about two different sports or pastimes, but the message remains the same.

I've talked to two guys who have surfed Waimea with it really cranking, according to their accounts and they described other big wave spots and the techniques they favor and their idea of perfect waves etc.. One mentioned riding a 10 ft wave with a heavy barrel and how just 3 or 4 seconds in the tube was like that many hours. It was that same remark that I heard echo from a fighter I know who loves to share his experiences too. I saw him at a live, pro kick-boxing event and I motioned "that sure is a slow match in there". He shared that at the bell, time stops and there's only you and another man nothing else, very surreal and minutes pass like hours.

I mention this because the surfers of the world, from the novice to the best, are like warriors who push the envelope of skill and maybe even luck sometimes. Most average surfers I think, are satisfied with nice smooth riding but for those who want to be great big wave surfers there's a path to that next level. There's no better substitute for improvement than conditioning, practice, studying other riders, working on your weaknesses, being comfortable with your equipment and of course, watching for that set with your wave in it!